Central Athens has lots of air-conditioned theaters showing new-release Greek, American, and European films. Listings appear in the Athens News, Kathimerini (the English language insert in the International Herald Tribune), and in the weekly Hellenic Times.

If you're in Athens in summer, keep an eye out for listings of neighborhood open-air cinemas, still a very pleasant way to pass an evening, although some old favorites have closed in recent years. Many of the open-air cinemas are family-owned and -run, and all are great places to watch Athenian families watching films -- which is to say, talking to each other, pursuing toddlers who are trying to run away, munching snacks and sipping cold drinks, all the while keeping up a running commentary on the film. We're fond of the Dexameni (tel. 210/362-3942), in Dexameni Square, Kolonaki, where there always seems to be a little breeze on a hot evening. The Cine Paris (tel. 210/322-2071), on Kidathineon in the Plaka, is one of the oldest in town -- and has great views of the Acropolis.